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3rd July 2013
Hiking - Walking: Bein Mhor,South Uist
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Monday 1st July - Chatting and ferry to Eriskay

We had a good night’s sleep and …… the sun is out – well some of the time! Had our breakfast then got chatting to a youngish couple in a white camper van. They came over on last night’s ferry and everyone was being sick! The lady was worried there was nothing to do! Oh dear not boding well for them. We drove over to the chapel (Chille Bharra)we missed yesterday which has Norsk grave stones inside it. Headed for Castlebay Co-op and bought ALL the bargains! Went to the harbour for a last look and saw the people with the camper who were at Eoligarry with us on the windy night. They were at the café on the front and we had a chat with them. Drove up to the Ferry ready for our crossing to Eriskay. We were early and saw a little plane come into land at the airport on the beach so shot off to take photos. Back to the ferry where we were the last vehicle on – just made it :) We had tickets but were not actually booked onto that particular ferry. Our Irish Sea kayak friends were also on the same crossing so we chatted to them on the way across. We had just seen the lady with the canoe on her roof at the airport and she was also on the crossing with us – we are just meeting the same people all the time! The crossing was very good (Mag had taken tablets and had my bands on just in case!). When we landed the kayakers were going to get their stuff in the canoes and head straight off to the islands! We drove across the island which takes no more than 5 minutes. After having a look at the causeway we will use to go over to South Uist tomorrow, we turned round and found a lovely little harbour by turning off the main road. Had a cuppa and then a lovely walk round the hills close to the bay. Had to shelter in the rocks for a brief shower but otherwise lovely in a dull way – we are getting used to Scottish weather, you get a bit of everything and it goes over quickly! On the way back we went out onto the pontoon into the harbour and chatted to a very friendly fisherman who had caught a whole tray full of Pollock and he had only been out an hour. A man who came in from his yacht on a tender joined in the conversation and we chatted to him for a long time when the fisherman had gone. We are really enjoying the social side of this holiday – we have never chatted to so’oooo many people and they are all so friendly. There were several seals in the bay and a heron on the other side. There were hundreds of crabs in holding baskets tied to the pontoon, poor things:( Back to the van and a quick move down a little lane we saw on our walk to park up for the night. There is a derelict house covered with starlings but other than that just us and it is very sheltered – apparently the weather is supposed to be rough for a few days.

Tuesday 2nd July

RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN!!!! Had a lie in as nothing to miss, can’t even see out of the windows it is so wet and horrible. Had breakfast and played Lost Cities then had a drive round the island and over the causeway to South Uist (62 miles) but nothing really inspiring here. Just more water in the way of lochs but otherwise much the same as the other islands. Went to the tourist information and spoke to a nice lady in there and got some leaflets. Had our lunch parked up on a sand dune then drove round some more. Parked up for the night at Loch Skiport which looks promising for some scenery if the weather gets better tomorrow. Lots and Lots of midges so had to put the curtain up. Still raining :( Don’t think we will hang around here as things are probably better further up the isands.

Wednesday 3rd July – Walk ****

Its not raining but a bit dull. Enjoyed being in such a picturesque spot. We saw a red throated diver just drifting past showing us his red throat! We went for a walk around the hill in front of the van, looked out across the loch to some ruins and saw the yacht that sailed in this morning. Walked down to the jetty underneath where we are parked and chatted to two Scottish couples here on holiday. One of the lady’s told us that one of her ancestors drowned at the jetty in 1800 something! They were very nice and we walked back up to the van with them. Saw some wild horses quite near to where we were parked. They had two foals :) Drove up towards the mountains and saw a Golden Eagle before we even got there! Also saw a white tailed eagle and a short eared owl flying along right next to the van. We drove along next to loch Eynort with lots and lots of seals lolling about on the rocks and seaweed. There were several babies too. We parked at the end of the road and had our lunch. This is where we first met our beautiful companion for the afternoon – Ben – a very young black and white sheepdog who was so affectionate and great fun. He came running out when we drove past his house and ran alongside the van. He came with us on what turned out to be a really tough hike which left us completely exhausted but didn’t seem to affect Ben at all. We were out over 4 hours! We walked round the Loch to start with and that path alone was hard work as the ground is very boggy grass covered peat. We crossed a rocky river and this is probably where we should have turned back but we carried on up towards the ridge which leads to the peak of Bein Mhor (620m). Mag wasn’t altogether happy about this plan but as I pulled the sulky face, after a rest and snack we carried on up. After an age, we got to a coll just before the climb up to the ridge and we looked over to the sea on the other side of the ridge. From up here you could see the sea on both sides of the island and we saw another Eagle – we saw several during the afternoon, some being ambushed by other birds (an oyster catcher on one occasion!) trying to protect their babies :( I decided to go up a bit further and see if it was going to be possible to reach the peak, Ben came with me but it was going to be too far and take too long and was too steep! I did find an antler which started to drip blood as soon as I held it up so it can only have come off the deer today! Ben the dog thought the blood was lovely :( We started to go down but it took well over an hour over the rough terrain and was very hard work. I was really suffering at the end and am never going hill walking again! It was a great hike but just too long and too steep for us! Ben went home and we put the smelly antler in newspaper and a thick bag in the boot and are hoping that the smell doesn’t still get through. We drove back to the same spot as last night as its supposed to windy and rainy tonight so we are hoping it will be sheltered.

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